NEW ZEALAND

SOUTH ISLAND

Let`s start with ‘my place’ MOTUEKA. Do I have to say anything about the accommodation!? Stay @ Bakerslodge (NZ`s best kitchen). If you want a garden stay at The White Elephant (not that central, kitchen and staff not half as good).
Motueka is the perfect starting point for the Able Tasman Nationalpark (Lynley and Wayne help you planning your trip). Hot Mamas is nice to sit and drink a vine. pooltables are everywhere else. You`ll find heaps of life-concerts on the weekends. “Dorf-Disse-Dancing” is Saturdays at the Gothic.
Don`t miss the Riverside-community. 5km out of town the Valley Highway or sth like that (ask at the information centre for the way). Really nice to dine with vine.
Go for a swim at the river, that`s fun (ask at Bakerslodge for the way to the rocks).

13km north of Motueka is my ‘home-beach’: KAITERITERI You have to had a swim there! You`ll have a great view and find funny signs on the little hill north of the beach (and while you are there, say hello to the crazy kayak-guides Nick and Cy).

MARAHAU – start of the Able Tasman Coastal track. Have a look at the Art-Café! good wood-carvings…

ABLE TASMAN NATIONALPARK : Bush with lovely golden bays and tourquoise sea. My favourite parts are around Torrent- & Bark Bay and north of Totaranui.
Kayaking: one day guided tours: Kaiteriteri-Kayak-Tours are fun. Able-Tasman-Kayaks has the nicest lunch (amazing…), but probably the best bargain is the Sea-Kayak-Company $75 (with yha-discount) includes lunch and pick up.
Even better is a two day freedom rental!
[2004: the prices are not the same anymore and Able-Tasman-Kayaks charges $12 for the lunch now]

GOLDEN BAY: Stop at the Pupu Springs (north of Takaka)
Stay @ Somerset House in COLLINGWOOD and say hello to lovely Chris, the owner. It`s cosy, small and overlooking the bay, plus free bread and breakfast.
Wharariki Beach is stunning wild (east of Farewell Spit) and if you have time and a car, go all the way around the Whanganui Inlet to Anatori River (one hour from the main-golden-bay-road)

MURCHINSON – Just stop if you need ice-cream or want to go rafting with Ultimate Descents. That`s the only reason to be in Murchinson. If you need to stay overnight, there is even a backpacker (Paddel Packer – I didn`t check it, but the price was $12).

You don`t need to see WESTPORT. Go further to PUNAKAIKI. Ask for the tide times and go to the Pancake Rocks. A nice hostel in the middle of the bush: Te Nikau Retreat with fresh homemade bread!

GREYMOUTH – industrial town, nothing special. Stay @ Noah`s Ark, a lovely decorated hostel. Ask Colin where you find the Railway Hotel, they have BBQ for $3 or eat as many sausages as you want for $5 (vergetarian option: two dodgy veggie-burger - salad and bread that come with it are okay). A nice Internet-Café is right next door.

FRANZ JOSEF – nice view, surrounded by mountains. Food is expensive, so buy as much as you can in Greymouth.
Glowworm Cottage is in general okay, but the mattresses aren`t the best. There for with Spa!
Take a torch and funny people with you and walk the glow-worm-valley-walk to the Tartre Tunnels.
If you do a guided-glacier-walk, choose a full day trip. The half day one is not worth it, you wont see the ice-caves and the cappuccino-waves. The Guiding Company was good.

FOX GLACIER even smaller. Ivory Towers has small dorms without bunks. Spa. A good Video-selection. The nice owner drove me to Gillespie Beach <- not good to hitch, 20km unsealed road without much traffic, but it`s really worth it… superb waves, driftwood, mystic! Have a look at the Goldminer Cemetry on the way.
Lake Matheson must be nice, if it`s calm and not cloudy. Hire a bike and go for a sunrise-trip!

On the way further South, stop @ Knights Point and enjoy another amazing view (and give the driver a break)

WANAKA – place with flair. A little lake-town surrounded by mountains.
Mt Roy, 1581m, 6km out of town. Boring way up, but superb view over the lake and Mt Aspiring. Guess the Rob-Roy-Walk is better, cause you walk through forest, see glaciers and mountains… 54km out of town.
Puzzel World – the maze is a challenge. $7 including puzzles and exhibition-rooms. (yha-members get golf for free)
Stay @ the Purple Cow (and say hello to Uli). All rooms with ensuite, nice staff, cappu for a dollar and an amazing view to wake up with…
Nightlife: Paddy`s Bar (irish with nice barkeeper) and Kingsway (pool and table football)
Kai Whaka Pai – good to enjoy eating, drinking and a chat (flat white is bad, but perfect yummy cake!).
For your fitness: mountainbike around the lake. I`d recommend the Outlet-track.
Go to the cinema. It`s really different!

Don`t take the mainroad to Queenstown. The Scenic Drive through the mountains is not only shorter…

QUEENSTOWN – expensive and touristic, but if you don`t care about that, it`s quite nice. Lovely lake with romantic lights in the evening.
Gondola up-hill is good, but if you are not too lazy to walk an hour, you can save $14 and you get the way back down for free. It`s well worth it to overlook lake, town and mountains. You can observe crazy bungy-jumper (just the 47m ones) or join the ‘cheapest fun-sport in QT’ and go for a double ride at the Ludge (1x scenic + 1x rasant = $7.5)
Nightlife: hard to find a place without ‘kiwi-experience`s independent travelers’ -> don`t go to the Casbah, if you don`t want to meet them! *Pog Mahones – irish pub (really irish on march 17th, but probably still funny if it`s not St. Patricks Day) *Chico`s – cosy cappu @ sofas next to the fire *The World – crowded, if you hold on until 10:30pm you deserve (and get) longdrinks for $3 or doubles for $4. Can be funny if you don`t take it to serious. **Buff – small club next to the Bottleshop in Camp St (silver door with tiny sign) we had incredible drum`n`bass and house on friday night between 2 and 6:30am.
Accommodation:
YHA – too big, but okay, cause of lovely staff and beautiful location right at the lake
Hippo Lodge – on a bitch of a hill, which nobody wants to climb with the backpack and later on twice a day
Deco – crazy owner, a bit up a hill, but not too bad. Therefore you get a pretty view
Thomas Hostel – central! 4 bed-dorm with ensuite and more $18

TE ANAU is a small track-starting-town. Beautiful, but boring. Bailiez has yummy vegetarian Tortillas and huge Burgers. Olive Tree looks cosier. $1-drinks from 8 to 9pm @ the ranch.
Accommodation: Te Anau Backpacker Lodge – 6 bed-dorm with mini-kitchen and ensuite (it`s worth-while to ask for Milford Room, that`s way better than room 13 and around) Huge Spa for $3. Email for $2 for 18min. kitchen is pretty okay.
YHA – clean and nice, best showers, not too big, yummy cake awaits you…

Road to Milford: have your camera ready… Mirror lake (hopefully without anoiing ducks), The Chasm, lookouts – getting even better behind the Hamner Tunnel! Watch a free Video ‘Milford in Winter’ at Knob`s Flat.

MILFORD – don`t forget sandfly-repellent !!! Bowen Falls – pretty pretty and wet. 10Min from the carpark. Tutoko-Valley until the bushedge. It`s a one way two and a half hour walk. (I hadn`t had time to go deep in the forest, cause of the dusk) but perfekt juicy rainforest (gives you an impression of the Milford Track)!
Milford Sound Lodge: live music on Sun- and Wednesdays. Accommodation okay, not more, but you don`t have a choice anyway.

MILFORD SOUND – quite impressive. After 10am anoiing airoplanes, which show you how small and tiny you and even them are compared to the huge mountains.
Milford Sound is a Fjord. Kayaking was nice. If you do it, invest $10 for a lift back to Te Anau. Rosco knows a lot about the area and stops at the nice spots.

MOSSBURN sucks. All the cars go to QT and we had to wait 90min to go away from this spot (what for is there a mark on the map?) You can survive, but it needs a party-candy-mix.

LUMSDEN everybody stops there. Nobody knows why.

INVERCARGILL not that bad like everybody says (just the story about the bad haircuts is true).The town is nothing special, but life is what you make it and you can have fun in the $2-shop (buy a gift for each other). Southern Comfort is an excellent Backpacker, it`s a cosy villa. Queens Park is green and ‘Sugar Shack’ is what they call nightlife. Or try Frog`n`Frikin !? haven`t been there, but heard about it.
Up-date 2004: they stopped charging university-fees to attract young people and bring life into this town. As far as I could investigate it works and gets busier and happier.

STEWART ISLAND: fly standby for $90 or take the ferry for $84 (includes a bus-shuttle from your hostel in Invercargill). But try to book more than 12min ahead.
Island with nice little beaches. Absolutely lonely. Short walks: Horseshoe track (officially closed, but who cares?). More Information @ the Doc-centre, ask Ulva Amos! Justcafe isn`t cheap, but good (no sugar-sachets to ripp. Just magarine)
Accommodation: Ann`s Place is lovely, small and perfect to relax peacefully. Go for the Double-Bed (best mattress, we tried them all) for $12. 10min walk from town.
Go to the service 10:30am on Sundays. It`s cute! And we got to know about the teapots -> smile and enjoy life!

CATLINS – that`s how I imagined NZ, when I first heard about it: really green hills, heaps of sheep, plenty little bays… dolphins! Penguins at Nugget Point. It`s worth-while to drive along the coast and take your time stopping everywhere. McleansFall is a lovely 15min-Walk through rainforest… I did this catlins-Coaster-trip from Invercargill to Dunedin. small bus. cute driver. nine hours. normally $90. I suppose it`s hard to hitch, unless you find someone going from your hostel. Smile at him and ask for a lift! (get an information-brochure in the information centre)

DUNEDIN, my favourite. A place full of atmosphere.
I arrived in the evening and did the mistake to stay at the Penguin Palace. The ten-bed-dorm is not to bed for $13. (as long as you swap the mattress before the others are coming back – cause some are ugly). The beds are tiny and the kitchen is disgusting…
There for is Dunedin full of interesting people – open your eyes and discover teapots all around! Enjoy observing them and relax. There are heaps of places. Don`t miss the ARC-café. Not only that they have free internet, the food is stunning and the prices are fair. Atmosphere and smiling staff! (It`s closed on Sundays)
The steepest Street in the southern hemisphere -> Baldwin St. is not really pretty looking, but if you`ve a lift to the top… why not.
Sara and me made it to our mission to find an alternative to the penguin palace for you:
Next Stop Backpacker - one big room where you can`t hide. No atmosphere, but table football.
London Lodge for $10 doesn`t exist anymore!
Adventure Backpacker – quite small dorms (starts with two beder) but windows just in the roof (in some rooms) there for fire-place, pool, nice kitchen- & living-area and very central… closest to the ARC
Nightlife: to start with you have to have a Flaming Lamborghini @ the TOAST (they have more good cocktails as well). DE LUSSA is another small bar with good DJs and drinks (fresh yummy orange-juice, but their White Russian wasn`t good at all). Next door you`ll find the POP – a downstairs bar with style courtyard and nice cocktails. BATH ST is the club to go, check out what kind of music they have on before you go (often reggae- or house-nights). Have fun and dance!
All the small bars close at 3am, Bath St will be still open, but if you look for a place to come down -> Metro, a simple, but licensed place, is open 24hours.
p.s. don`t forget to check out the Surfers at St. Clairs!

Between Dunedin and Mt. Cook
Moeraki-Boulders -> nice place for a morning stop, 130km north of Dunedin. A nice 15min walk to see huge round stones on the beach.
OAMARU – looks boring, long and flat. I got stuck between Oamaru and Omarama (less traffic), but it`s a nice valley. I slept when we passed OMARAMA and didn`t see a lot of TWIZEL (there is nothing to see anyway). The Road to Mt. Cook makes you looking forward to be there. Nice photo-spots… we had lucky stars and one bridge was blocked by sheep!

MT COOK - food is expensive so buy the stuff you need before you go there. I had bad weather and couldn`t go into the mountains – just did the Bowen-Bush-Walk. Nice, but only 10min.
The YHA is a nice one, wooden building and small enough to be cosy (so book ahead if you want a bed)
Go out at night to enjoy the shining snow in the darkness!
The Mt. Cook lookout is recommended on clear days only, but is a good spot to hitch to Tekapo anyway.

LAKE TAKAPO is indeed an amazing blue lake, but besides walking to the Mt.John (two hours) or biking around the lake, there is nothing else to do but relax!
Nice staff (John) @ the Four Square supermarket.
Accommodation:
YHA – superb view, kitchen okay, not too big, clean.
Tailor-made-Backpacker: no bunks! Dorms for $16 or triple, twin or double for $18. friendly staff. Small and nice cause in three small houses. Neat!

TIMARU a pretty place. Okay to stay one night and stroll around. Caroline Bay is a lovely beach and they have a mirror-maze (I didn`t go, but must be fun). Two churches and other neat buildings…

GERALDINE – a small small place. All you can do is enjoy sun, bakery stuff and taste juice, jam & co @ the Bakers (yummy!)

ASHBURTON – nothing special, but shops and loos to stop on the way.

CHRISTCHURCH – was the first spot on the South Island where I woke up from the traffic noise (in the yha), heaps of one way streets and free-bus-shuttle (most drivers I met were unfriendly and helpless). At least it`s cheap to go by bus, even out of town it`s just $2.
The Art Gallery in the Botanic garden is for free and some parts are quite worth-while to see.
The best place for internet is either the Arts center ($3 per hour) or the big email-center at the north-east corner of the square for $5 per hour plus a voucher for another hour for free (to use after 6pm).
Java Jones (Cnr Colombo and Armagh St) nice milk-foam made by nice guys.
Sophies Café (Papanui St) yummy vego-burger.
Eye spy (Lichfield St) a nice lounge bar to chill. Good music, but noone danced.
Check out `the Package` to find out what`s going on.
Accommodation:
Yha city central – really central, clean, nice rest- and kitchen-area. But too big, unpersonal. Thin walls and far too many Japanese folks! Expensive: $20 Dorm, Twin for $23 p.P.
Chester St - 10Min walk to the Cathedral. Small, cosy and homely. Really pretty, book ahead if you want a bed (Dbl and Twin for $38)
Foley Towers – 10min walk to town as well. A nice place with pretty garden-area. Kitchen is all right. 6-bed-dorms are just $14, but it`s worth-while to invest $2 more and have a big window, wash-basin and just three or four beds in your room. Double and Twin for $38 or nice small ones with ensuite for $44.
Vagabond (10min to town). Not too big. Looks all right, but not too cosy (I expected more after I heard a lot about it. To be fair i`ve to confess, that I just had a short look, cause it was `no vacancy` anyway)
Charlies B Backpack - central and cheap. Okay for one night, but not more. Kitchen is far too small for 150 people and the hostel isn`t clean ($12)
Stonehurst (next to Charlies) big dorms with fridge, but prison bunks. I saw a pool, but couldn`t find atmosphere.
Occidental – quite central. Kiwi-experience. Smelly bar and dark building with less windows – I couldn`t look at the rooms, but didn`t like it anyway.


AKAROA – I haven`t been to Akaroa itself, but Le Bons Bay is pretty and a boat-trip for $18 shows a dolphins and more (departs 9am from the Backpackers)
Le-Bons-Bay-Backpacker is sooo homely. $16 for a dorm, a bit more for a double – if you want it more romantic ask for one of the cabins -> honeymoon pure with fantastic views! All with free breakfast. They cook dinner every night, mostly seafood or vegetarian option for $10 (includes salad and dessert). Garden as far as you can see and a huge wooden table for the family-we-eat-all-together-feeling. Take a bath under the stars!
The French Farm (maybe Robinson Bay?) with really nice views, expensive restaurant. walk around the restaurant and sit in the outdoor-area, that`s the Pizza-section and affordable. soo yummy… huge pizzas for $18 (share two with three).

LYTTLETON – surrounded by superb landscape: sea, hills and harbour. Just 15min to drive to ChCh. Crazy bar “wunderbar” <- you have to see it. Unique!!!

HAMNER SPRINGS – your way to Hamner will be excellent. it goes through picturesque valleys. Hamner is pretty, but nothing is going on. The springs are a fake and totally commercial – better go to the Cebtianel (?) Pool in ChCh ($3 for yha-members includes sauna, spa and steam-room) simple, but all you need.
There is just one hostel and that`s okay.

KAIKOURA – i like it. yes, it is small. but lovely!
Heaps of tiny shops where you can spend your money.
The Dolphin Swim was just amazing. That`s worth-while the money (more than anything else): you think you are alone with the dolphins and if they come close, look in your eyes and swim around in circles with you. you`ll forget everything else. It`s just overwhelming and stunning…
The Whale Watch wasn`t exciting. It`s more the imagination – you don`t see more than a bit black in the sea. The seconds as the whale lifts up his tail are stunning, but to pay $90 for it ?!? I definetly prefer the dolphins – very playful if you entertain them.
Don`t miss the `Sonic`: nice staff, live-music…. Pizza with garlic, spinach, sunflower-seeds, pepper, mushroom, tomatoes and cheese served with hummus. The salad is nice as well ($4.5 large Pizza for $14). [2004: new owner, more expensive, but still nice]
Craypot – a bit more expensive, but style. Sometimes you deserve this luxury.
Accommodation:
Dusky Lodge - definetly one of NZ`s better hostels. clean, atmosphere, spa, sundeck, good kitchen
YHA - nice view, but out of town
Planet Backpacker - central, one large dorm, okay for one night (kiwi experience...)
up date 2004: Lazy Shag - new, very nice, superb kitchen, free internet

NELSON - Centre of New Zealand and the area with the most sunshine-hours per year (after Motueka) !
Don`t be lazy, walk up the hill and be in the geographical-center of NZ.
I never staied in Nelson as a tourist, but heaps of people told me, that it`s really enjoyable.
Victorian Rose is a irish pub with fun. But there are more places to go in town, just stroll along Bridge St...
I didn`t like the YHA, it`s very central and all right, but no atmosphere. Paradiso has a pool, a spa and a garden and is, there for, a ten minutes walk to town. (the BBH brochure will help you to find more hostels...)
Plenty of Shops, a few second hand shops and nice cafes.
Don`t miss the church on top of the green hill... it`s nice to look at and the park around it is nice to rest in.
Tahuna Beach!

BLENHEIM - nice for a lunch-break. Haven`t seen much of it (just new world, mc-donalds-icecream and the petrol station), but the town center looks neat.

If you hitch from Kaikoura to Nelson, there is way more traffic along the road Blenheim- Renwick- Havelock. The option via Picton and the scenic drive to Havelock is only popular when the touristis leave the ferry and go to Nelson!

PICTON in summer: sleep in the park and you`ll meet interesting people waiting for the 5am-Ferry. Picton is a small town which lives from the ferry-passengers. But it`s quite nice!

There are two ways to cross the South Island. You can take a train between Greymouth and ChCh ($74) going over ALBERT PASS. Hitching works as well, but be aware that it might be cold if someone dropps you off at the top bit of the pass. LEWIS PASS is not as impressive and goes via Springs Junction and Hamner.